Last week, the Seattle sun may have dried up all the rain, but not our thirst. This Rumdrop presents a special something to keep your lips wet and mouth watering. Just above the water's edge in old Ballard, Ray's Boathouse features a flight of rums paired with caramel corn. Wait. What? That's right, one of Seattle's finest waterfront restaurants has a lovely rum sampler on the menu. What else? This pairing pushes the rumvelope out just a bit more. You may have heard of rum and chocolate or even rum and cheese pairings. These are classic combinations for sure. Further, just last month in the UK, Imbibe Live premiered a rum and marshmallow tasting hosted by the legendary Ian Burrell. But aren't rum pairings just for rum connoisseurs? Well, not anymore. Rum's status is on the rise internationally; in Seattle, it's become a celebrity. Ray's brings to light yet, another delectable combination rum works well with. In addition to its utility in cocktails, rum's unmatched diversity allows for unlimited potential in food pairings. Upon asking Ray's Pastry Chef, Lorna Stokes, about their rum sampler, she expressed wanting to create something, "unique and sexy, that held up in the heat". Oh yeah! The caramel is made fresh in house, mixed with each spice or flavor ingredient and drizzled over the popcorn. Here's a closer look at that tasty creativity.
(Left) Ron Zacapa Sistema Solera 23 & Fennel:This silky smooth blend of rums aged 6-23 years is rich in flavor. It's succulent vanilla, tobacco and caramelized fruit notes allow the fennel's vivid character to open up in the mouth for a sweet and savory harmony.
(Center) Plantation Grand Réserve 5yr & Orange-Almond:A blend of rums aged 5 years originating from Barbados, then refined in France boasts balance and complexity. Each bite unfolds the caramel's orange zest and roughly chopped almonds complimenting the rum's ripe fruits, cocoa and soft oak overtones.
(Right) Pyrat XO Reserve & Fleur de Sel: This interesting blend of rums (up to 15 years) offers a bold orange liqueur-styled bouquet of flavor, overtly sweet with hints of cinnamon and clove. The rich mineral quality of the fleur de sel (sea salt) prompts salivation eaten alone, however with the rum, it quickly resolves the lingering orange sweetness into a surprisingly tasty finish. Suggested tip - sip the rum and immediately follow with a piece of the popcorn.
Isn't it time you returned to Ray's for some rum with a view?
Thank you to Lorna for such a delicious Rum and Caramel Popcorn pairing. Yum!
The Rum Collective's mission stated at the beginning of each meeting is:
to enhance awareness of and develop appreciation for rum, from the still to the cocktail, in Seattle and beyond.
This evening, in our return to Liberty, we did just that...and more. Guests arrived and were properly greeted, not just by the ambience of a room filled with Rhum Clément, Benjamin Mélin-Jones and other like-minded rhum enthusiasts, but to a 'Ti Punch making station. Oh yeah! In Martinique, when served this cocktail, one may hear this charming phrase:
Chacun prépare sa propre mort
"each prepares their own death"
'Ti Punch station
Clément Sirop de Canne (front) & Clément Première Canne (back)
This meeting's greeting cocktail was done the Martiniquaise way; each guest had the opportunity to prepare their own. The cocktail is simple, yet delicate. However, balancing out the flavors of the lime and Sirop de Canne with the rhum agricole takes a little practice. Of course, no one had any problem trying their best at tempting fate again and again. It made for a fun hands-on learning experience. Practice makes perfect!
1 lime piece (disc shaped; 50/50 ratio of pulp to zest)
The 'Ti Punch table included all the fixings including ice, Clément V.S.O.P and Clément's new swizzle sticks (see photo). Modeled after the Le Bois LéLé, one was provided to each person at the 'Ti Punch station. This sort of schwag was a hit. Technique is important and a proper swizzle to mix up the ingredients is a fun ending to this potent libation. Ben talks to the individual preferences surrounding Martinique's national cocktail and the story of making a 'Ti Punch for his uncle as a kid. Swizzle!!
For more on 'Ti Punch see our previous article here.
As everyone settled with a 'Ti Punch in hand and a plate full of yum from Seattle's little known (and best) Cuban restaurant, Cafe con Leche, we focus our attention to view a short video...
Six snifters sit before each guest as Ben speaks, introducing each expression. We begin the tasting with the Clément V.S.O.P. It is almost like he is introducing you to his family members. We listen and sip, learning about how each expression is produced, be it a an aged single vintage rhum or a blend of select vintages. Many guests comment on the rich character of and differences between the 6yr and 10yr Grand Reserve. The opportunity to taste through each expression in their portfolio provides not only valuable comparative information, but makes for a well-rounded experience.
The final expression in our line-up is the Clément Single Cask.
Clément Single Cask
This rare rhum is made from canne bleue (blue sugar cane) only and is known as a single varietal. It is a single vintage, aged for eight years and bottled at 43.6% ABV - cask strength. Clément Single Cask is available only at Habitation Clément at present. The room went silent as we raised our glasses full of this exceptional expression, nurtured to perfection by cellar master, Robert Peronet.
Simply Amazing!!!
The closing cocktail appeared in the impromptu style in which it was created. Keith Waldbauer, co-owner of and bartender at Liberty, has a knack for creating awesome with no notice necessary. That's right folks, this cocktail was conjured moments prior to the meeting. Refreshingly complex, it boasts a fusion of Martinique Rhum and asian flavors, complimented by a combination of bitters. It's always exciting to witness the creative talent coming out of Liberty. Win!
A desert nightcap was necessary for such a special meeting. A bowl composed of Peak's Frozen Custard (chocolate) coated with Clément Créole Shrubb and finely chopped pistachio nuts was served. Chocolate and orange were meant for each other and the pistachio made for a ménage à trois. It was a flavor explosion in the mouth and the effects were memorable.
Introducing Mt. Pelée!
Mt. Pelée
A round of applause to Keith Waldbauer, Andrew Friedman and the staff at Liberty for their hospitality and preparation for this rhumtastic event!
Special thanks to Ben Jones for an informative tasting and taking time out to join us again in Seattle!!
Shortly after leaving Rhumerie Du Simon, we arrive at Habitation Clément. As I step onto the grounds of Domaine de l'Acajou, its grandeur and historic significance become clear. Perhaps it was the tall, arching trees offering shaded pathways to take in the scene under the Martinique sun. The visitor friendly, open design is welcoming and unsurfaces the urge for quiet exploration and reflection. Perhaps I was taken back by simply knowing that this is the birthplace of Rhum Clément and a place called home by the father of Rhum Agricole, Homère Clément. Perhaps it was both, considering the propensity for truth telling after taking Dékolaj earlier this morning. Regardless, a perfect start to any morning in Martinique!
Sculpture Park
Habitation Clément is the only Créole home recognized as a Historical Monument in Martinique. In 1887, Homère Clément
purchased this 300 acre plantation and pioneered Rhum Agricole from its sugar cane fields. Today this site has transformed into another sort of enjoyable experience. Botanical gardens, a sculpture park and contemporary art galleries can now be sampled in addition to the various fine rhums offered in their boutique. Although our tour provided only a brief view of the new additions, a full day here is justifiable.
I become giddy with excitement as I pass by a few beautifully ripe stalks of blue sugar cane (canne bleue) on the way to...
Canne Bleue
...a private tasting with Robert Peronet, Cellar Master for Clément Rhums.
Alright, if I must!
Clément Tasting
Left to right: Clément 6yr GR, Clément 10yr GR, Clément Single Cask, Clément Cuvee Homère
Inside the aging warehouse, the bouquet of aromas is heavenly.
Clément Tasting
We taste through the Clément 6yr and 10yr Grand Reserve first, followed by the Clément Single Cask finishing with the Cuvée Homère Clément and finally the Clément X.O. Robert discusses the different casks used in the aging of each expression. He describes the flavors introduced into the rhums from the new French Oak and re-charred once used American Oak (ex-bourbon cask). We learn that their aged rhums are bottled at 44% with good reason; the family has always preferred it that way. Who doesn't respect this sort of tradition?! The humidity and consistent temperature of 29-30 degrees Celsius (85-86 F) year round lead to a 8-9 percent loss annually (angels' share). He notes the importance of this natural process in the rhum's overall character. A perfect setting for such an intimate and informative tasting. Awesome!
Holding Vats
We pass by the location of the original distillery, old machinery relics included, en route to view the other aging cellars. There is a bust of one of the Clément family at the opening of each Chai or cellar. All but one of them are filled with oak casks aging rhum. I learn, there are 7000 barrels, each holding 200 liters, aging at present. One cellar, unlike the others, contains large oak holding vats full of rhum resting before bottling. I learn the alcohol strength of the rhum is reduced each month prior to reaching bottling proof. A gradual reduction is done to ensure the unique aromas and smoky flavors remain in the end product. Also, there is also no caramel or sugar added to the rhum per the AOC regulations. Yes, this is Rhum Agricole folks!
Paying respects to the founder!
Bust of Homère Clément
The view is as stunning as it is peaceful on our walk up to the old Créole house rising above. The sugar cane that is used to make their rhum is still grown in the fields in the distance. Also, note the banana trees (see photo) which adds to the microclimate and sustainability of the soil. Before moving on, I stop to enjoy nature's symphony coming from the gentle breeze rolling off the hills and through the leaves of palm trees and sugar cane fields. I could stay longer, but....
In addition to being a heritage site, important political meetings have transpired here. On March 14, 1991, French President François Mitterand hosted US President George H.W. Bush at Habitation Clément for the signing of treaties towards the end of the first Persian Gulf War. A small video detailing the meeting can be viewed here. A place of peace and good spirits indeed!
Clément V.S.O.P. inside the House of Masters
After a few lessons in proper 'Ti Punch preparation, we visited the infamous Créole home featured on the bottles of Rhum Clément. Formally known as the House of Masters, it is filled with antiques and well worth a visit to gain appreciation for all of her colonial charm. I notice an old lamp and side table piece portraying an opened bottle of Clément V.S.O.P. and snifter giving the room a warm feeling as though people still lived there. What a fine place to have called home.
Outside the house, under the gazebo, it became time to indulge in a digestif.
A most lovely Clément Rhum and Panatela cigar pairing!!
Clément 10yr Grand Reserve, Clément Tres Vieux 1976, Clément X.O.
We took our time and enjoyed each moment at Habitation Clément. The 1976 Vintage is reported to be one of the finest years of Martinique. However, I could not think of a better time to taste it than with present company on this day. Island time at its best!
Clément Tres Vieux 1976 and Benjamin Mélin-Jones
To all the staff at Habitation Clément that made for a truly memorable visit,
This week's Rumdrops post finds us under blue skies and a determined Seattle sun. Our answer? Mojito. Yes sir, and in this case, both the cocktail and the restaurant! Tucked away off Lake City Way, this is the hidden gem you need to know about this summer. It is located in the Maple Leaf neighborhood only a few minutes north of Downtown Seattle right off
I-5. Brilliant colors and latin music are the scene. Mojito lovers need not fear the anticipation of those overly sweetened or mint salad mistakes that you've had in the past. The folks at Mojito do it right. Typically, this Cuban cocktail is composed of white rum, sugar, lime, mint leaves and soda water but the variations are numerous. At Mojito, the glasses for this classic cocktail are the first thing you notice walking in; stacked high and proud with limes. Their namesake is muddled with care, balanced in flavor and well-endowed with DonQ Cristal. DonQ is known for their great mixing rums and this is case in point. Fantastico! Their food isn't to be looked over either. Readers note, if you go later in the evening, you may wait for a table, but their will always be a Mojito waiting for you. Si, por favor!
Could this be the best Mojito served in Seattle? Go there and find out for yourself.
The feeling of traveling to tour a rum distillery is always a bit surreal. In the case of the first of six distillery visits during my stay in Martinique, it was a sugar cane fantasy come true. The excitement building within, while driving by what seemed to be endless fields of sugar cane on the way, was met with sweet aromas of fresh pressed sugar cane juice in the warm air. Harvest time! In the background of blue, sun-filled skies, Rhumerie Du Simon looked picture perfect. It was there I took my first step into experiencing the world of Rhum Agricole first hand. The beauty and tradition of Martinique rhum making is to behold, so I captured a few images, scribbled a few notes and brought back a story to share. Read and rhum on...
Sugar cane being weighed at the scale
As we walked towards the distillery, tractors and trucks full of sugar cane stalks were driving in to stop on-top of the weighing scale. After their weights were noted and samples taken, they deposited their loads in heaping piles in front of a conveyor belt before being moved by a front loader to become cut and finally crushed for their juice (see photos below).
Benjamin Mélin-Jones, Managing Director, Clément USA
Our tour guide is none other than Benjamin Mélin-Jones; a gentleman whose family lineage, most notably Homère Clément, pioneered the making of rhum from sugar cane juice in the later part of the 19th century. This style of rum we call, Rhum Agricole. Ben grew up playing in the sugar cane fields of Martinique. Today, he's chock-full of information on Rhum Agricole from Martinique and speaks proudly, not only his brands, but of the category as a whole. I listen to his concern on the importance of cultivating outside awareness about Martinique's Rhum Agricole sector. Bringing to light the unique and diverse variety of rhums on the island is the first step to ensuring success and continuing family traditions. I recall the way many rum-producing lands in the Caribbean and South America have gone; economic forces, which over time, result in distillery closures, corporate ownership with consolidation and/or elimination of brands. In fact, the number of active distilleries has already gone from 13 to 7; more than a 50% reduction just in the past 18 years! You probably haven't heard of a rhum brand by the name Simon, right? That is because there isn't one. However, if you are familiar with the Rhum Agricole at all, Rhum Clément should ring a bell. Rhumerie Du Simon currently produces rhum under the Clément and HSE brands. The majority of the rhum produced (and most desirable rhum blanc) is allocated for Clément. I learn, sugar cane is being cut fresh just prior to transport to the distillery. The amount that is cut and its timing is coordinated with the distillery's current day operation, e.g., only what can be crushed and fermented on that day is cut. I am told approximately 300 tons of sugar cane were crushed on this day. Whoa!
Sugar cane stalks freshly cut
The sugar concentration is tested in the cane stalks when it arrives at the weighing scale, in the vesou or juice upon crushing and in the vin de canne or wine following fermentation. In addition, pH is also tested throughout the process. These methods are defined under the regulations for production of Rhum Agricole AOC. Continuous monitoring is performed for quality control and to achieve the best flavors for the end product.
Sugar cane being move to the conveyor belt for shredding
Sugar cane being shredded
Here is a look at the engine (recently retired) responsible for running the machinery involved in crushing the sugar cane.
La Machine a Vapeur de la Distillerie Du Simon
The sugar cane is then crushed three times by larger rollers. Water is added after the first and second crushing to maximize the sugar extracted.
Sugar cane being crushed for its juice (1st press)
Once the sugar cane has been crushed it is re-added to the mix to obtain the maximum yield.
Sugar cane going to be crushed
Fresh pressed vesou (sugar cane juice)
The sugar cane juice is captured and then pumped into vats for fermentation. Fermentation of the sugar cane juice begins on the same day (usually within hours) it is cut. Fresh, indeed!
Sugar cane juice filling a fermentation container
Fermentation occurs in open air containers using the natural occurring yeast on the sugar cane stalks. In addition, Belgian yeast is added as a control. It is fermented between 24-72 hours and results in a vin de canne (sugar cane wine) of 5-7% ethanol as per required under the AOC decree. I also learn that each container will ultimately yield 2000 liters of distilled rhum at 55% ABV.
Fermentation container
Close up!
Fermentation
The furnace doors were visibly red hot and the heat radiating off of them was impressive. The bagasse (dried, crushed sugar cane) is the fuel source for the furnace.
Furnace doors
The sun dried bagasse is fed into the boiler by an automated conveyor belt system from above. The opportunity to view the bagasse being automatically pushed into the fire rising from the deep within the furnace was amazing. This provides a consistent input of energy and output of heat for the system.
See it live by watching the video below!
Holy Bagasse!
Bagasse drying in the Martinique sun
Onward to the column stills!
Column stills (ground level)
There are four column stills present. Three stills were actively distilling during our tour. History is significant here as Rhumerie Du Simon acquired several of the legendary Martinique stills from distilleries long past. In 1989, the J. Bally copper column still was moved here from their distillery in Carbet after its closing. Later in 1994, when distillation ceased at Habitation St. Etienne, their copper stills were also added on. Production of Clément Rhum was moved from Habitation Clément to Simon in 1989. This move included one of the original stills (see photo below & still furthest right in photo above) being used to make Clément Rhum. Ben tells us the distillate from all the stills are combined for most of the Clément expressions. However, for their single varietals, like Clément Canne Bleue and Clément Single Cask, the original Clément still is used exclusively.
Take a look at her, she's a beauty!
Original column still from Habitation Clément
Distillation of Rhum Agricole is also regulated under the AOC decree. In addition to the heat application and the number and type of plates in the column still, the distillate must be between 65-75% ABV. In addition, it may be distilled once only to receive AOC labeling.
Column Stills (upper level)
We visit the lab to see a variety of chemical analyses performed real time and learn from the quality control people some of the rationale behind the extensive testing performed. Even the bagasse is tested for humidity before going to the furnace to prevent damage! It is here I begin to see quantitatively the terrior's influence on Rhum Agricole. Certain qualities like sugar content (measured in Brix) can vary significantly from day to day depending on sunlight, rainfall and harvest location. The terrior influence on the sugar cane, its juice and the distillate becomes even more clear during our qualitative evaluation; taste testing a few different samples at 70-72% ABV, straight off the still. Gotta love quality assurance!
Gas Chromatograph
Despite the visible European Union stickers throughout, it still feels like island time in the Caribbean.
Following the tour, refreshments were served. The view inside isn't bad either. We see some of the fine HSE Rhums that have been produced from this distillery after the brand re-opened.
Vintages of Habitation Saint-Etienne (HSE)
RHUMTASTIC!
A sincere thank you to Ben Jones for providing a very informative tour of Rhumerie Du Simon and insight into the history and production of Rhum Agricole in Martinique in general!
Sour dé Martinique & Clément Premiére Canne
Prepared by Keith Waldbauer
Seattle's cloud cover may have passed momentarily, but the rumdrops haven't stopped falling. This week we refresh our vows for Rhum Agricole at one of our first loves, Liberty Bar. Okay, okay...so it wasn't that long ago we dropped in to enjoy a Drink Locally, but Liberty's cocktail menu is deep (like three fingers deep) and full of awesome. Oh yeah! Moreover, Liberty is a friendly, return visit kind-of-place that appreciates rum. As Spring turns into Summer, we find an attractive companion in Liberty's Sour dé Martinique, featuring Clément Premiére Canne. Classically built as a sour with a sugar cane spin; it's simple, sexy et satisfaisante. Keith Waldbauer, co-owner and bartender at Liberty, creates a cocktail with a fine velvety foam reminiscent of a cappuccino, but better. It has Rhum! Aside from its pleasant mouth feel, its light and creamy texture also allows many of the subtleties in this vibrant Rhum Agricole to open up more slowly and be fully appreciated. Sip and savor the delicate bouquet of sugar cane and vegetal notes amidst hints of chocolate. Step aside, pisco, for this old classic may have found its next revival in Agricole, highlighted by this expression from Rhum Clément. Its charming character is owed to its beginnings in the far-away tropical environment of Martinique. The combination of grapefruit and lime forming the citrus component, give it a fun and refreshing quality balanced perfectly for warm weather. Take a close look at the Peychaud's and Angostura Bitters which decorate the surface. Sour art? It's well known that Liberty's bar staff are champions of espresso including latte art. Their artisanal style shows through in their cocktails as well. Clearly, bitters makes it better, and in this case, for more than one reason. The only problem with this perfect summery cocktail is the bottom of glass comes just a little too soon. C'est la vie!
Spring is here and the Sun is shining on Seattle's rum forecast. As the season gets drier this Junuary (well, in theory), you may find yourself wanting for something to wet your lips. Rumba'sTiki Tuesdays has a cocktail to keep you up at night. Refreshing and properly titled, the Air-Conditioned Nightmare is meant to satisfy. The balanced aromas of pineapple and mint give your senses the green light to move in closer and enjoy the sweet aromas of passion fruit with hints of spice. Its composition is relatively simple for Tiki, but deserves special mention. The tropical flavor of Aunty Liliko'i Passion Fruit Syrup mixes wonderfully with a big bold Jamaican Rum like Coruba. The addition of citrus and bitters are reminiscent of a rum punch offering a balance to the funky sweetness. I am told the name of the cocktail has its origins in the book, The Air-Conditioned Nightmare, by Henry Miller. Jana Howard, bartender and creator of the cocktail, best described the combination of Coruba and Passion Fruit Syrup as a pleasant, "distraction, which brings out the pepper and cardamom in the GiffardMangalore." Wait, What? Giffard Mangalore? For those who don't know, Managalore D'epices et de Piment Liqueur is a lesser known expression in the amazing and downright delicious line of liqueurs out of France. Made by Giffard & Cie, the Mangalore may be their most intriguing spirit. Its name is derived from the Malabar coast of southwest India where spices, like cardamom, cinnamon and chillis are in abundance. If you have consumed anything containing hot spices, the heat it provides induces a subsequent cooling effect upon sweating. And as with many things from the Subcontinent, it spares nothing in its rich flavor profile or alcohol concentration. No, this isn't another sweet liqueur; its 40% ABV, full of spice and everything nice. Yum! Note to readers, after drinking this cocktail, the next sentence may indeed provoke a bad dream or two. It isn't clear if Giffard is going to continue to produce Mangalore in the future. For now, one thing is certain. This tasty Tiki libation is served every week on Tuesday. (Jana also works on Fridays and I am told she may be willing to make her signature drink upon request....hint, hint). Tiki cocktails in Seattle up until now have largely failed on the quality end; today, Rumba is changing that and for the better.
(Left) Ron Zacapa Sistema Solera 23 & Fennel: This silky smooth blend of rums aged 6-23 years is rich in flavor. It's succulent vanilla, tobacco and caramelized fruit notes allow the fennel's vivid character to open up in the mouth for a sweet and savory harmony.
