From Top-Shelf Sipper to No Thanks: The Fall of Zaya Rum

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Zaya Gran Reserva at Rumba

It is rare, for this site, that an article casts a rum into such a disheartening (and now perhaps sobering) light as this one. Don't fear dear readers, our Mission still stands strong. However, there are times when balance and tough love is needed. It isn't without a bit of sadness that I declare Zaya Gran Reserva to be this rum. I can hear many rum lovers' responses now; "WAIT, WHAT!? Are you talking about the same Zaya Rum that I sipped years ago. The Zaya that opened my eyes and those of my friends to world of rum and how good sipping rums can be?" Well, if you are thinking something like this too, here is what I would say to you:

Yes, same Zaya Rum, but...

 Have you tasted it recently? 

No, I'm Not Talking About.... Imported Rum from Guatemala

Let's be clear, this article IS NOT talking about the differences between the Zaya Rum produced and bottled in Guatemala pre-2008 and the Zaya Rum from Trinidad. Now for a quick step back in rum history. In the early part of 2008, Diageo realized the value of a certain rum and, no surprises here, they bought it. That Rum was the lovely Ron Zacapa. Bet that name sounds familiar, eh? Zaya Rum, along with Ron Botran, were also being produced under the same roof by Industrias Licoreras de Guatemala. At the time, Diageo's acquisition created an unfavorable situation for Zaya Rum production due to its similarities with Zacapa; both required a supply of limited aged rum stocks and both competed for more or less the same market share; rich, complex, sweeter style sipping rums. Hence, the brand was moved to Trinidad where it has been produced ever since. What this article IS talking about are the differences observed in Zaya Rum from Trinidad over the past few years.

A Rum's Blend May Change a Bit Over Time or....Metamorphosize 

Everyone with any common sense knew that Zaya Rum would likely taste a bit different after production moved from Guatemala to Trinidad. In fact, some thought it might actually improve! Consider its new location, Trinidad Distillers Ltd., the distillery that makes Angostura Rum, one of the best rum brands in the world. Okay, so Trinidad makes GREAT rum; but they have their characteristic style and that differs from Guatemala. Certainly it takes a lot of skill to come up with a blend of rums, using different molasses and water, different stills, barrels, climate, etc. for each rum, to smell and taste the same, right? Plus, consider that they probably didn't transport a sufficient supply (if any) of the aged rums stocks from Guatemala necessary in the blend to carry them over for another 12 years. So how did they do it? Well, when the first bottles of Zaya Rum from Trinidad came out, there were far more similarities in aroma and flavors to its Guatemalan version than differences. Vanilla and caramel were a bit more dominant in the aromas and flavor, but otherwise, it still maintained much of its complexity, mouth feel and enjoyable finish. Don't get me wrong, it was not the same rum. That stated, if you ask me, Carol Homer did a pretty damn good job with the new blend. What many people didn't expect was that Zaya Rum made in Trinidad would continue to change. Further, that new rum from Trinidad would change so much, that to some seasoned palates, it became unrecognizable to the Zaya Rum they had once loved.

It's Fall From Grace....and the Shelves of Rumba

Zaya's fall from grace isn't meant to be interpreted literally, unless it happens to be at Rumba, one of the best rum-oriented bars in the country. Jim Romdall, their talented bar manager, not only boasts about their 400+ rums in stock but can show you how and what do with them. Bottom's up! More recently Rumba is faced with busier nights and limited shelf space and selecting new rums for their coveted "Wall of Rum" has become challenging. Jim announced to me he was pulling Zaya off Rumba's shelves after he had a taste of the most recent iteration of Zaya Rum. I went down to speak with Jim and after tasting and talking more, he admitted cold-sober, "If someone asks for it, I would recommend a different rum. If I have a bottle on our shelf that I can't recommend [anymore], then I shouldn't have it on our shelves." His words ring true from a business standpoint and from someone who loved what Zaya Rum once was and why it meant so much to so many rum enthusiasts. It was a gateway rum for many people who only knew rum to be Bacardi and Captain Morgan. Rumba, you may know if you'd had the pleasure, is filled with much respect and rumlove, and now, will no longer serve Zaya Rum. Let me repeat, Rumba is going to remove a luxury "sipping" rum from its shelf because they can no longer recommend it based off quality. This is saying something. Although, to be fair, there are lots of other rums that have changed for the worse over time that I won't mention here. So why make an example out of Zaya? Perhaps it is the gross difference between the quality perceived and/or expected of this rum, what it has become and the bartender's frustration on reconciling this disconnect with each patron of the bar. Regardless of the reason, the truth is difficult to swallow (pun intended) and now they have spared you that surprise at Rumba.

What Happened to My Zaya....and By the Way, You Forgot to Take Off the Petate!!

So just what happened to Zaya Rum from Trinidad?  A quick search indicates, that after the Guatemalan version received a "Double Gold" from the respectable 2007 San Francisco Spirits Competition, there are no such comparable "awards" for the Trinidad version to be found. This may be simply explained by whether or not it was entered into any competitions. Professional rum reviews also give some indication of changes witnessed. For example, well-respected rum advocates, such as Dave Russell was one of the first to post a formal comparative review of the Guatemalan and Trinidad versions on Rum Gallery in late 2008. He indicates subtle changes and their underlying explanations when factoring in working knowledge of some of characteristics of Angostura's aged rums. Nice! Then, another well-written and balanced review of the Zaya from Trinidad came out in 2010, from Matthew "RumDood" Robold. He accurately noted, "Its intense vanilla and caramel flavors can either be very welcome or entirely-putting off depending on your palate". Even by the end of 2012, The Rum Howler, Chip Dykstra, found in his review that Zaya Rum from Trinidad, "lacked balance due to the overabundance of vanilla". Despite its noticeably sweeter and unbalanced aromas and taste, each review noted some degree of complexity and character found in an aged rum. So what has happened since between 2013-2015? Bottle changes happened and so did the blend.

It's Not You, Zaya Rum....It's Me

After speaking with Jim and having some personal concern this new finding was a batch issue, I went out to purchase a few bottles at different liquor stores in the Seattle area. I also happened to have a bottle from 2010, before they changed the sticker on its crest to read "Producers of World's Finest Luxury Rum - Aged 12 years" and embossed "Zaya" into its side. It is worth noting that changes in bottle design have long been associated with changes to the contents inside. I tasted each of the 2015 iterations side by side with its earlier counterpart. I even brought out a Guatemalan version from 2008. The Zaya Rum from Trinidad has changed over time without question. I'm not trying to understand why they call this a Hand Selected Spirit, but why it has changed. Moreover, without transparency by the brand of such changes, it is arguably perceived as deception. But I'll admit, I'm no Rum Expert. Zaya Rum today offers a intense candy like sweetness and ripe vanilla and caramel aromas with subdued baking spices and cocoa giving the impression you are smelling a spiced rum, not a sipping rum. Kilo Kai anyone? I note strong butterfinger candybar aroma. I'm sorry Infinium Spirits, I just don't like that much added sugar and flavors. The initial flavors that once developed towards the finish are more heated and hollow in the 2015 version, rapidly fading by mid-palate; the long complex finish, now mostly empty, offering a more astringent mouth feel as some lingering fusel alcohol and petroleum distillate like flavors come together to reveal cough syrup notes reminiscent of Vicks Formula 44. I'm sorry Infinium Spirits, I just prefer honesty to the claim that this is still a blend of 3-5 rums each aged a minimum of 12 years. 

"Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, because your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are."
John Wooden

Rhum Clement X.O. - A Death in the Family

We all imagine the time will come when there will be no more time. Like an older relative or loved one, we understand there will be a point at which, their life will end, when we will receive a phone call from a family member, informing us of the expected, yet otherwise unimaginable. We attempt to understand what it may be like, but don't really want to know. Then, that point arrives and the seemingly infinite amount of time on Earth is suddenly fixed; you hang up the phone and are left with memories and a void. You cannot change what has happened, but notice an ache deep inside, knowing such times will no longer be. This is how I felt after hearing that Rhum Clement X.O. had died.

Composed of the best vintages (1952, 1970 and 1976) Martinique has ever seen, its aromas and flavors were well received and impacted many. These vintages, despite their most appealing qualities, were produced in limited quantities. We often take for granted those with so much meaning in our lives, and as a r(h)um lover, I am guilty of this as well. An amazing rhum comes along, however you don't fully appreciate it in the context of it never being readily available again. History repeats and this timeless story is told again. Its passing is a great loss to anyone who appreciates world-class spirits and it saddens me knowing the future of rhum agricole will no longer have one of its finest expressions at hand. In trying to relate what this rhum meant, I have requested comments from many of those in the rhum community about Clement X.O.'s passing.

Here are some of the comments from friends, family and those who have came to know and love this rhum agricole tres vieux:

It's sad because it was the first agricole that visually (X.O./Bottle) connected itself with French brandy making for me. I think Martinique could benefit from that connecting and pedigree more. I typically avoid r(h)ums that have spent more than 15 years in a barrel. I have never avoided Clement X.O.  

---Steve Livigni (La Descarga, Scopa Italian Roots, The Chestnut Club)

We will remember it as one of the best of all the french caribbean. The last tears of it have already been consumed and our tears won't replace the pleasure and feelings we had to enjoy the last sips of it. Let it rest in peace alongside the master, the Dr. Homere Clement, for now and eternity 

---Benoit Bail (Liqeuers et Spiritueux, Zwazo Rum)

So much more than a series of age statements, the X.O. straddled both brilliance and belligerence with sweet bright notes layered over a dense almost over charred, finish. 

---Chris Morales (Rhum Clement)

This won't be the last retired iconic spirit as demand for quality far exceeds the old stocks that exist to provide it. Drink the good stuff while you can! 

---Jim Romdall (Rumba)

I once traded a bottle of X.O. for an excellent bicycle. Now that bicycle makes me sad. 

---Wayne Curtis (Author - And a Bottle of  Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails)

Clement X.O. was my introduction to aged agricole and has remained a favorite for many years. I started with the best and have never found a worthy substitute. It will be a very sad day in the rum world when it is finally....Until then I'm hoarding every bottle I find.  

---Mike Streeter (Rum Connection, International Rum Council)

I just can't believe X.O. is gone. It seems like only yesterday I was drinking X.O. out of a bottle in New Orleans with Jeff Berry and Blair Reynolds...the times we had, they will carry me forward. 

---Matt "Rumdood" Robold (rumdood.com, 320 Main) 

Well, I'm sad to see it go. It was a lovely rum, very austere and agreeably dry. Despite the advanced aged of the component rums, it never presented as over-oaked. Fortunately, the Clement range continues to expand with fine new offerings that help soften the blow.

---Martin Cate (Smuggler's Cove)

You were my first top shelf premium rum. Although you were excellent to sip on, your true calling was being paired up with Appleton 21yr for the luxurious Fifty Dollar Mai Tai that so many people enjoyed on their birthdays, anniversaries, promotions and holiday celebrations. The Fifty Dollar Mai Tai will never be the same and for that, you will be truly missed. 

---Jason Alexander (Tacoma Cabana)

It belongs to the ages now... 

---Chris Carlsson (Spirits Review) 

It's the end of an era personally. The Clement X.O. was the first truly high end agricole I ever had and I will remember it always with its nod to Cognac.

---Rocky Yeh (American Northwest) 

It's with great sadness mixed with warm emotions that Clement X.O. has depleted its rare stocks and has departed our rum cabinet for the great cellars in the sky.

---Benjamin Jones (Family, Rhum Clement) 

X.O. we hardly knew ye, but your legacy lives on. Vive le Vieux!

---Paul Clarke (Imbibe) 

It says a lot for Clement's integrity if they discontinue X.O. for a missing ingredient: most brands would just fiddle the formula!

---Ian Williams (Author, Rum: A Social and Sociable History of the Real Spirit of 1776)

The bottle that effectively pushed a certain Controlee brandy (au revoir Cognac) off the tiny Sambar shelves and solidified our Rhum-centric nature. It was all Agricole after that. 

---Jay Kuehner, (Vessel, Sambar) 

There will be a void in my rhum cabinet after the death of the excellent Clement X.O.

---Ian "Rum-Ambassador" Burrell (The Rum Experience) 

It's not often one's compelled to write about a rums passing. Most rhums, even great ones, simply....disappear...News of Clement X.O.'s pending extinction --barrel aged stocks of the 1952 vintage essential to its DNA are depleted - caused a tear drop as large as the shapely bottle it's presented in. No ordinary rhum, X.O. combines that elusive and exclusive complexity of aromas and harmony of flavors that other master blenders aspire to achieve. They will fall short. Clement's estate grown sugarcane and distillates are available only to them and to you in these always collectible yet soon to be extinct bottles. Hoard now, enjoy at leisure, cry later.

---Dave Russell (Rum Gallery, International Rum Council)

Habitation Clement and Rhum Clement X.O.

Rest in Peace Clement X.O.